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Coffee break

By October 14, 2014 Travel

If Monday is get up off it ( the tush) and on it (the work) day, then allow me a brief meander on Tuesday.

My map has more pins on it than ever: Places I want to see.  Maybe it’s inverted from Places I’ve been but reminding myself of the world at my door is either masochistic or motivational, depending on coffee intake.


Successful or not, I’ll admit it: This clever and collaborative travel campaign has me that much closer to another land of ice and snow.


Earlier this year, Inspired by Iceland invited fans through Facebook to create a map of Iceland’s secret spots for the winner of the World’s Most Intrepid Tourist.

Here’s the result:


I know. Vistas of cold. Do we not have enough of these here?

Scan 7


The cold there just looks better.



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School prep: riding the big one

By September 2, 2014 Travel

It’s over.

Best evidence of summer’s end is when somebody other than me in this household decides to clean out our kitchen command centre junk drawer (thanks honey) to line up the pencils.

I’m not quite ready but will be soon.

Who is?

Maybe the school kids itching to get on with it, to see who is taller, rounder, leaner, bolder… Me? I’ll be ready in a day or two, after I reset the frame, currently set at sky blue, thanks to our tenth visit to Prince Edward Island.

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Travel lust

By May 16, 2014 Travel

My vacation photo slideshows just got old fast.



Where are you going next?


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Take me back

By March 16, 2014 Travel

What are you doing this weekend?

We’re headed downtown tomorrow for the Toronto St. Patrick’s Day Parade.

The roots are green in my tribe so no surprise I wanted to go and sink my boots into that magical place. Three years ago, we fell hard for Ireland and have been planning a return visit ever since.


Look for us at the parade. We’ll be the ones in the goofy hats. Fat chance of finding us.

For more on our Irish trip, you may enjoy December Blues and Unthawing your frozen heart

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NYC Theatre Blitz

By January 28, 2014 Performance, Travel

I like the hit big cities deliver, each with their own energy and colour palette. If Toronto is still trying to figure out what colour it is, as it sinks lower in the wide chasm of Rob Ford vs The Elites, NYC presents a crimson sash that grips me by the collar every visit.
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Glory days

By September 21, 2013 Travel

I know you. I see you pining away over your flip flops, toes now shunning anything but socks; suntan on permanent fade.

You summer babies beginning the long huddle on the couch just about now: go ahead and whine about the cold coming.

This is my season, the season of chilly mornings that clear my fog and forests heated with their own colours.

I’m headed to Algonquin to this place:

Voyageur Quest

How fast can I fly there?*

I’m there to soak in the reds (foliage, bottles,) and see what’s cooking in the Voyageur Quest log cabin.

I might run into some trippers and just maybe, hitch a ride.

For other ideas on where to see the colour best this fall, see
Where to Watch Fall Foliage Change Colour

* See Take me up with you!

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Take me up with you!

By September 20, 2013 Travel

Would you rather be a fly on the wall anywhere you want?


Be able to fly?

Easy answer, in this age old road trip/canoe trip/bed time ritual game, “What kind of superhero skill do you wish you had?”


Fly baby fly.

My favourite ride at Disneyworld was Soarin’, an awesome flight simulator, the only ride that seemed devoid of vomit-inducing drops (left those for Daddy and girls) therefore safe for this wonky stomach. Tinkerbell did her magic and I went home, ravin’ about Soarin’. 

I guess the next step is to take up paragliding… or stay home and watch this video shot on a GoPro camera.
It’s a beauty.

Have a great weekend. Hope you get to soar a little wherever you are.

How about a man who really can soar?

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Facing my fear at high altitude

By July 24, 2013 Travel

“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity…”

John Muir

Not tired or nerve-shaken, but over civilized? Guilty and happily so, thanks to days traipsing through spectacular boulevards in Vienna and schnitzel in Salzburg. I won’t forget any time soon hearing my daughters sing for their last time as students together* in their school choir.


It was, after all, our incentive to go to Austria. We saw them perform and waved good bye as they continued on to Prague. Then we jumped in a rented convertible and headed south.

The approach into the Alps matches a list of other first impressions imprinted forever in my mental map: bumping between potholes through mango valleys in St. Lucia; driving in sleet through the hills of Connemara before the Irish mist cleared; sprinting from the car over the Prince Edward Island dunes to shout hello to a wild Atlantic; stopping for a minute, then an hour, then two, at Cathedral Grove to stare at trees en route to Tofino on Vancouver Island.

Driving into the valley that would be our last stop before flying home, the conversation broke off. It was enough just to ogle.


Deep in the woods, hiking one of a myriad of trails in Hohe Tauern  National Park, a thunderous waterfall almost drowned out the pounding in my chest. A steady ascent will do that to an infrequent hiker.

Around a twist in the path and we stood before a wide clearing, cool alpine air filling our lungs. The peaks were hidden but still, suddenly massive.

I began to make little deals with myself about leaving it all behind-the toxic soup of city summer weather, the clogged tedium of traffic, the colliding and shoving, the search for a parking spot, the punishing pulse of activity rushing forward.

It is an ancient reckoning: small as we are in these valleys between high mounds of rock, we bump up against ourselves. I am home in these parts unknown.

I had my love to keep me moving and we were the last people on earth. Is there anything better than this?

Well, yes, in fact, there was an alpine hut waiting, with cold beer, wild blueberries and fish almost as blue. A note of caution when ordering poached or “blue” fish from the menu, it is in fact, just that: blue.

The alfresco meal gave us momentum to push on, for the next, slightly steeper ascent, strewn with twigs and other hazards to trip you up, should you falter, you in your Birkenstocks. Hiking boots would have tipped the weight balance of my suitcase, so there! The end of the path is the beginning of another long ascent, to a higher peak where a lake shimmers. Alas, we turned back, time waning and knees whining, but were rewarded with a view that kept us company all the way down.

We had been gone for hours. If I had a little skip in my step, it may have been the anticipated swim in our inn.

Gruner Baum hotel Hoteldorf in Badgastein

Although most come to the Gastein valley to ski, it is known across Europe as a health resort town, due to thermal spring waters.

We loved to end the day in the healing pools.

That and glass of wine, and I might never have come home.

I will take up picnics to workers in the hills, I thought, and hand out beer between hikes.  Braid my hair and wear dirndls, plunging neckline and all.

But there was one last adventure. To do it, I had to stare down a phobia. I didn’t know I had any until I slid into forty. Spiders and snakes? I went to summer camp. Podiums before a crowd? I am the middle of five and was encouraged to speak up. Heights? The higher the better. But… I won’t peer over the cliff. There it is. I love being on top of a ski hill but don’t have me ride shotgun, cliffside, on car routes that lead to magical spots. Just beam me up, Scotty.

There is evidence somewhere in our home movie tapes of me panting and emitting tiny shrieks. Shut off your dirty minds, naughty readers, I was in jeep, racing to Myrtos beach, known as one of the most spectacular on the planet, high praise in Greece where there are pretty beaches everywhere.

Myrtos Beach, Kefalonia island, Greece and yes, the water is really that colour.

To get there, drivers must negotiate steep hillsides and “you’re kidding me-we’re driving that?” roads.  Along the route are little shrines to remind drivers of all those who took the turns to a tragic end. With shaky hands, I handed the video to my kids in the backseat and gripped the seat in a cold sweat. We made it but it was only floating in the stunning water that brought my breathing back to normal. Four years later, I am in a convertible, on a much, much, higher trek, on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road.

Note the tight grip on my bottle and no, it is not vodka.


The road winds through meadows and ice to the highest mountain in Austria, the Grossglockner (3,798 m) and its glacier, thePasterze. Hugging cliffs, our car began the climb as I cursed myself and my stupid ideas. Yes, it was my idea and the Friendly Greek jumped on it. His idea of a great date once was to drive me from Toronto to the Big Apple on the 401 for a piece of apple pie. This is a man who loves to drive (and eat pie).

I was making deals again. Forget Bush Woman and giving up my backyard BBQ bashes, pedicures and TIFF.  How about trying not shout more than half a dozen times, “Slow down!” so that he didn’t drive off the road. Somewhere between a gasp and a tremble, I began to sink back in my seat and take it all in. We were travelling through a tunnel, snail’s speed, built through the mountain, and as we came out into the light, I sat on my fear. If I was going to die, this was the place. It would be a sensational dive. There would be a crowd to witness my scream. I’d have that chance finally to yodel as I went down.

Joining us on the road were tour buses, a parade of Porsches, packs of motorcycles, cyclists, all of us, tiny dots moving in circles, round and round the mountain, the car temperature gauge slowly dropping. We stopped for a picnic and I gulped down the mineral water. It was heaven.

48 kilometres. 36 heart stopping bends. Altitude 2,504 metres. All of it spectacular.

The best kind of holidays leave you wanting to return.
I want to shout from the cliffs,


You have to stomp on your fear.

Life is out there waiting.

Auf Wiedersehen, Austria.
For other posts from my Austrian Adventure, see:

* My oldest was on her last trip with the choir as she graduated in June. To hear how we celebrated, read here.

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Calling for kitsch

By July 19, 2013 Travel

“Don’t worry, we have our own private tour. It will focus only on informative things. You don’t have to worry about all that kitschy stuff”.

The tour guide was sure she was doing my daughters and their choir group a favour on a recent tour in Austria as they got set to depart for The Sound of Music tour in Salzburg.
I was on that same tour on a different day and time yet we discovered our reactions at the conclusion were similar: that’s it, that’s all, folks?
The tour is based on the hit movie, based on the hit Broadway show, based on an actual narrative that has been famously diluted in the transition. What was added to the film were wallops of sentiment helped along by catchy songs, love interests (no sex though, need that G rating), and sweeping panoramas of the Austrian Alps. Decades later, hundreds of visitors to Salzburg line up daily for a bus tour to various iconic locations. At 40 euros a ticket, I expected at least an insider peek, at most a rollicking ride of sing-along silliness.

I wanted to yodel, dammit.

Ready for the bus: I have confidence!

We climbed in to an airless van, three couples and our guide, a charming Brit decked out in dirndl. She drove us to several spots and out we hopped, dutifully snapping photos of each location, as she detailed, over a microphone, well worn lore about the cast and crew. Leaving Salzburg en route to other locations used nearby, our guide turned on the film soundtrack and the woman in front of me began to hum in a faint, barely there sort of drone.   Four hours later, we were dumped out at Mirabell Gardens and told to wander about as we would surely see the sights of the Do Re Mi song scene.

I was flat out crushed. That’s it? Just about every Austrian travel book makes mention of the tour and reviews are gushy, if not ecstatic. Yet, I was nonplussed. It was all just flat, like the hum of my fellow passenger.

If we were going to be in a group, I wanted a busload of fans that knew every line, like my sister Jane, who has yet to work any of the dialogue into her legal career to date that I know of (there’s still time). We should all have been wearing alpine hats, given out as we stepped onto the bus, or parts of a nun’s habit.

(I admit that would have been repeating myself as I once dressed as a nun for a Toronto Sound of Music Sing-a-long. Others in my group were brown-paper-packages-tied up-with string.  Our kids went as girls-in-white dresses-in-blue satin-sashes. Not quite Rocky Horror but we roared just as loud. I was a good nun. I kept it to a chant.)

And the bus? The movie—the whole three hours of fabulousness—should have been playing inside the bus with a pause for every pit stop, and our guide telling us,  “Did you like that scene? Well, at our next stop, you’ll have your chance to do your best Julie Andrews imitation.”

We needed to run on the hills and wave our hands about like idiots. We had the real mountain backdrop (they’re alive!) but a fake might even have sufficed. After all, the birch trees and brook were cheated, added on by special effects crew later in Hollywood.

Does this sound familiar? If you’re thinking Mickey Mouse, you’re warm. The genius behind Disney World, and Universal Studios and the like, is that visitors all understand from the onset they are in the land of deep fromage. Once through the gates, we don Mickey ears and wave at the cartoon characters, even though we know the poor sop inside is sweating to death and likely to tell us to fuck off if we step on a foot by error. (See good nun.) Venerating big musical films requires kitsch. Anything less is  Monty Python.

If you’re on the tour, you are a fan already. There’s little dignity in fandom. To pretend distance by having us all shuffle along, museum style, is missing the point. Who doesn’t know the words to at least one of the songs?  Why not ask bus passengers if anyone wants to sing a verse? The hands will go up faster than you can say send up.

Most information, delivered with schoolmarm sincerity, was not new. We SOM fans have had four decades to squeeze out the juice and then, the cast has been on Oprah.  In the fun fact department, I did learn that the child carried over the mountains by Christopher Plummer in the closing scenes was not the same actress seen earlier playing Gretl. She got chubby during the shoot. Plummer, who famously referred to the film as “the Sound of Mucous”, refused to carry her for the scene so a skinnier stand child in was used for that shot.  That was almost worth my ticket price but I wanted more.

As for the locations, we could have driven to all of them ourselves as all were visible to anyone with even a passing interest. (That would not include the locals who have very little interest in the film). Squinting across the lake at the Leopoldskron Castle, we are told that the facade and terraces were locations used for many scenes but, as it is now an international conference centre owned by Harvard, no, one cannot simply waltz across the terrace.

Interiors were never used. Instead producers copied the Venetian ballroom on a Hollywood sound stage. The glass gazebo used for the love scenes has been moved from its original location on the castle property to the Hellbrunn Palace grounds where anyone can peer inside and imagine Liesl and Rolf prancing about in the rain. But then, this scene too (and Maria and the Captain’s love scenes) was also shot back at 20th Century Fox in Hollywood.

The festival hall where the family performs during the Salzburg festival was closed on our tour date, and we could visit the Nonnberg Abbey where the nuns sang”Maria” but not on this tour.

And so it went.


Still, Salzburg, like most of Austria, is gorgeous. I loved our jaunt out of town to the Mondsee Cathedral where finally, we could walk in Maria’s footsteps (that would be the fake Maria, not the real Maria) and glide up the aisle, orchestra swelling in our heads.  The cathedral has since been painted, curiously, a California pink, but at least we were inside!

I did resist hopping down the Do Re Mi flight of steps in Mirabell Gardens, but the cast was really here and the statues and fountains did not disappoint. There is no shortage of thrill to stand on the fountain edge and sing full throttle “Me, a name I call myself, Fa-a long, long way to run“, but I will leave it up to you to imagine whether I did or not.

There is fun to be had in schlepping about town and reliving moments from a beloved film with seemingly endless appeal.

It just wasn’t on my No Kitsch Here tour.

Too bad it won’t make my list of my favourite things.

To read what I did love about Austria see:
One strudel away from Nirvana
The real world class city

Next up, Facing my fears: last view from Austria.
Stay tuned!

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The real world class city

By July 15, 2013 Travel

Much as I’d like to be able to judge a city by pastries and filtered coffee, I do concede the quinoa crowd may scoff. Where we will come together, toned and tubby alike, is ground less caloric, yet richer than any torte.

Vienna is culture at its most transparent and for a Canadian, circa 2013, it slams you upon entry.

How does one feel places unknown?  Do we read travel books and websites that point us to wonders? Pick up audio guides while we gape at great works of art?

Hound concierge staff, hoping for unsullied directions? Ask those who’ve travelled before what should we see?

I admit to all methods but then I get the most from hopping on a city’s transit system to see how residents are pumped through its quarters, wandering boulevards to fall in step with locals, looking at shoes, posture, gait, affectations, applause, peering in the shop windows, watching families on a Sunday in the square. Checking out the men-old habits die hard.  In Vienna, at our hotel, all the men wore jackets, many of them Tyrolean coats, to breakfast.  We forgot our finery.

On the ubiquitous hop on/off bus tour, the audio playlist buzzed through my ear buds: Mozart, Strauss, Beethoven, Brahms, Haydn-all either born here, or wrote some of the world’s greatest music here and the tour guides and everyone else in the country want you to know it, want you to hear it. Easy to do with four opera houses and numerous concerts: we heard Mozart’s greatest hits at The Golden Palace along with a few thousand other gullible tourists. I resisted waving a baton from my seat but it was tempting. Strolling to work off the schnitzel, we stopped by the Vienna State Opera where the production inside the house was playing outside the house on a massive screen. Camped out on blankets and rows of chairs, getting their opera buzz for free, a few hundred of all ages on the sidewalks. Tourists? Maybe some but they were hardly there for the gimmick. Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde was the live show and many of them were rooted for the long haul, like my very own opera fanatic, who kept telling me “just one more aria-then we’ll go.”

On the sleek streetcars, we watched bikers keep pace in wide boulevards, and looked for congestion, finding none.

The global consulting firm Mercer has ranked Vienna the best city in the world for excellent living standards and surely the merry dance of car, bike and streetcar is stunning to behold when you come from a city fixated on a rotund suspected crackmeister.  We never saw street litter, crop tops, Lulu gear, tight jeans or panhandlers. Were they whisked away, Giuliani style, to corners unseen?  Instead, there is low crime rates, no slums and 450 carnival balls a year. One night, we stepped into the dusk, and almost headfirst into a parade of glittering gowns the likes I’ve never seen, en route to the Fête Impériale, to raise funds for the protection of Europe’s oldest cultural horse breed, the Lipizzaner. I wish I had snapped photos but I was in full on stare mode (and yes, checking out the shoes again..and the gowns).

The birthplace of the waltz and operetta is also a central meeting point for international congresses and they have their pick of vast, grand spaces and architecture from the Middle ages to Baroque. We spent an afternoon at the Kunsthistorisches Museum, commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph I to house the art collection of the Habsburgs, and came out staggering from the weight of all those masters.

Another afternoon was spent with Gustav Klimt at the Leopold, in the MuseumsQuartier Wien, a massive complex of modern art, where acrobats practised flips and toy boats whizzed in a man made pond amidst colourful outdoor furniture called “enzis”.

On a streetcar out to the Sigmund Freud museum, we met an American cameraman in town to shoot a European version of CSI. He spends 6 months a year here and tells us he loves the wagon wheel design of the city districts, adding ‘it’s a nice change from Vegas”.

 Would Vegas have a crowd like the one packing the Stephansdom for morning mass where my daughters’ school choir, here on a summer concert tour, performed in the same space Joseph Haydn was a choirboy? The girls in their gowns singing Frozen in Frobisher Bay, a stunning song about whaling in the Canadian arctic, was my perfect culture cluster, resonating here in this historic cathedral that stands in for Vienna in postcards at every stop. 

Late one evening we were sent by our concierge to what he described as the best street food in the city. Thinking of the North American hot dog stand, I wasn’t overly keen. Steps from the opera house was Bitzinger’s Würstelstand with a variety of delicious sausages; sliced on a serviette or stuck in long baguettes, could be washed down with beer or wine, in a glass if you preferred. Lined up around us were groups of teenagers, clubgoers.The guys were in suits, straight pants, slicked Euro-dos, their dates in stylish dresses and heels. The opera had just let out and people were streaming the streets. One middle-aged couple exiting the opera house approached the mass of bicycles locked up by the sidewalk. He pulled out what appeared to be a leather “murse” and handed her some flats. She, at least sixty but trim, elegant, took off her heels and put them in his bag. They hopped on their bikes and went into the dark.

It is, of course, the sum of its parts and Vienna is nothing short of beautiful efficiency. If there is formality in the dress and step of culture, it is at once dense and open, historic and new.
For all the cobbled corners and gothic arches, the place felt like advanced living.

The Globe and Mail’s Margaret Wente says Toronto is masquerading as a 21st century city.  Vienna has it figured out. They only need their masks for the ball.

* Read my post on Viennese treats when not hungry.

Next up: how I would rejig the Sound of Music tour in Salzburg

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